Meeting the Mekong's Dolphins

Fewer than a hundred Irrawaddy dolphins remain in the Cambodian Mekong. Seeing one surface, with its blunt, smiling face, is a privilege that comes with responsibility.

Go with a community-run boat from Kampi, just north of Kratié. Early morning and late afternoon are best, when the river is calm and the light is gold.

Spend the night on Koh Trong, the island opposite town, where homestays and a slow bicycle loop past pomelo orchards make the perfect counterpoint to the river.