Eating Your Way Through Kampot & Kep

Kep's crab market is loud, smoky and utterly delicious. Buy a kilo of blue swimmer crab straight from the baskets in the sea, then carry it to a stall that will wok-fry it with fresh green Kampot pepper still on the vine.

Up the road, the pepper plantations welcome visitors. The difference between green, black and red peppercorns — all from the same vine, picked at different times — is a revelation you can taste on the spot.

End the day on the Kampot riverfront as the light goes amber and the fishing boats head out. Order anything with pepper. You won't regret it.