First Light at Angkor Wat

There is a moment, just before the sun crests the eastern towers, when the whole of Angkor Wat holds its breath. The crowds have gathered along the northern reflecting pool, cameras ready, but for a few minutes nobody speaks.

Arrive by 5:00am to claim a spot at the left-hand pool — the reflection is cleaner there and the silhouette of the five towers lines up perfectly. Bring a small torch; the causeway is dark.

Afterwards, walk the upper galleries before the tour buses arrive. The bas-reliefs of the Churning of the Sea of Milk are best seen in the soft early light, when every carved figure throws its own long shadow.